The date is October 6th 2022, I had just arrived in Nepal’s capital city of Kathmandu and it was about 1:30 in the morning. The airport was incredibly small with only a few employees managing the late flights. Overall the interior looked pretty old fashioned. It was all brick with faded yellowish fluorescent lighting and it was nicely decorated with fresh Marigold flowers, religious artifacts and a large statue of Buddha nearing the exit into baggage claim. Navigating this tiny airport was a really simple and fast process at this hour.
After my arrival I was sent towards the immigration station. This was basically all done via an electronic kiosk where I filled out my information and selected my visa. I had no idea how long I planned to be in Nepal so I chose the 90 day no re-entry for $125. Out of 100 people on the flight, I appeared to be the only foreign passport holder. There was no one in line and I was supremely grateful for this. I quickly approached the stern looking man at the counter, dressed in formal military garments and I paid for my visa in US dollars. He had a few simple questions and stamped my passport. I made my way through the airport and quickly arrived at baggage claim. It was just one conveyor belt so there was no confusion and my luggage arrived in minutes. I picked up my luggage and was approached by a gentleman who offered his assistance. Honestly the first lesson I would learn as soon as I landed was don’t over pack. I had one very large luggage, one cabin sized and a tactical backpack stuffed to the brim. This was my second biggest mistake next to not having an ATM card.
Back to the story…I kindly accepted his offer, he assisted me with a free luggage carrier, loaded it for me and proceeded to ask for cash in return. I had mostly 20’s and a few 100’s hidden on me. I really wanted to give him something for his help. I managed to dig in my pockets and find a $5 crunched at the bottom. So I handed the man the money and thanked him. He approached me for more using broken English to explain how Nepal is very poor and he could use more than that. The second lesson I would learn is that Nepal is a poor country and I am a tourist. Naturally it is expected I will have money and will likely tip for any help received. I expected this to some degree and absolutely fine with it, but I was honestly pretty broke for my ambitions. Another gentleman saw this interaction and came to offer me his assistance pushing my cart outside but I was fresh out of cash that I could spare in smaller bills. I also didn’t wanna risk pulling out all my cash this late with no one to have my back. So I declined his services and tried my best to explain I just don’t have the cash and apologized.
The third lesson I would learn all in a span of about 20 minutes from landing, is to do more research and be better prepared. I genuinely had no idea what I landed myself in and I had pretty limited resources. I knew one person in the entire country at this time. Her name is Barsha Karmacharya, but she wasn’t available until the next day. So I was on my own and everything around me was closed. I figured in this future world we live in at a capital city airport, I’d have a ton of options. I was very very wrong. Not a single soul was working any of the currency, mobile service or hotel accommodation booths in the airport at this hour and I had lightly begun to panic.
This is an image of KTM airport during the day when everything is still open and available. I didn’t manage to take many pictures since my phone was dying, because I lost my charger!
Every place now was vacant and shackled up, except the duty free liquor store conveniently attached to the airport. Inside this store was a young man named Roshan. He was maybe around 27 sitting behind the counter. He was in a suit which seemed rather unfit for the time and place but to my luck, he spoke English and very well at that. I’m certain my face showed exactly how out of luck I felt. My phone didn’t have service, the airport had no wifi and I had no way to purchase cell service since I also lost my wallet on the airplane so I had none of my bank cards. Roshan was a man with very kind eyes and a very calm energy about him. I felt like he could be trusted and I let down my guard a bit. He had just explained to me he was getting ready to close up and leave and wanted to offer me whatever assistance he could. I told him I needed a hotel room for the night and didn’t expect almost everything to be so unavailable. He asked me if I could wait for him to close his shop and he would help me find accommodations and get to them. To be honest, I was a bit nervous. Maybe it’s all those things you read and see in the media about not trusting people you don’t know in foreign countries. Well right now I had no choice and I knew it, so I kindly accepted his offer.
I purchased a few drinks from him to take back to my hotel room since my nerves were as high as I’d felt them in years. Knowing that since I was alone, I also shouldn’t help myself too much. I purchased two shots of Johnny Walker’s Black for about $13. Roshan finished his closing duties while making light conversation with me. Afterwards he took me outside, helped me with my luggage and began talking to a few random taxi drivers in the parking lot. He disappeared for a few minutes and more panic began to set in. It was late and the whole city was more silent than an awkward situation; which I was kind of in or so it felt like. After a few turn downs we finally approached a man who I’m guessing knew of a hotel that he could take me to at this hour. The driver lit a cigarette and told us to get in. I didn’t know cab drivers could smoke, I thought to myself. Nervously, I got into the unmarked car and to my surprise Roshan hopped in with me. He explained that he wanted to to ensure I made it safely since he knew English. We drove around the empty and unlit dirt roads. I looked up and saw the streets were lined with desolate looking buildings. It almost looked like one of those apocalyptic movies. I was uneasy with the darkness and emptiness of my surroundings mixed with being in a car with 2 men I had no connection with. Finally after several attempts we found a hotel with a vacant room available. Roshan paid for my cabbie, spoke to the hotel and followed me upstairs.
Trust your instincts
I like to think that I’ve got a pretty good sense about me but having him inside my room could have been the beginning of a horror movie. He entered my room and shut the door behind him, then proceeded to halfway lay on my bed. I offered him a little whiskey and we chatted for a minute. He complimented me on my looks and casually offered me a massage with a smile. I tried my best to not seem scared of him or weak and I politely declined. Feeling the situation, I began to get a bit uneasy and faked a couple yawns to indicate my evening was coming to an end. I told him I was heading to Banepa in the morning but will return to Kathmandu in a week and that we should get lunch. He did a sort of tilted nod and said “sure”. After profusely thanking him I took his number, we hugged and I showed him the door.
I didn’t want to be rude so I quietly waited until I heard him reach the bottom of the stairs and get in his car. I triple locked it behind him and breathed a huge sigh of relief. After 3 flights and some 26 hours, I had finally made it safely and alone to my accommodations. My judge of character worked out this time, and Roshan was genuinely a compassionate man who really helped me out. I never saw him again after this and I believe it was due to my inability to add his number into my phone correctly. Since connecting internationally differs from country to country, I failed in adding in and using my first foreign contact. I truly hope one day our paths will cross again so I can thank him for all of his help. I really do not know what I would have done had he closed early.
Now that I was ready to settle in for the night I used the WiFi provided by the hotel to let everyone know I was okay. I discovered I had lost my block to charge my phone so I used the television in the room to get a charge. I also posted pictures of the business card to the hotel, my room number and the last person I was seen with just in case. Out of nowhere there was a Knock Knock! at my door. The front desk had appeared with my luggage and asked if I would like a hot cup of tea. Anxious about accepting anything unsealed, I requested a bottle of water and hesitantly also accepted the offer for the hot tea. My biggest fear in life is being kidnapped and trafficked, so naturally a rush of anxiety and nerves rushed in. What if they put something in the tea and take me while I’m sleeping? Too many horror movies are really to blame here. Minutes later, a cup of hot tea and bottled water were brought to my room. I decided to wash the airport off of me before getting in bed. The bathroom was small and the toilet and shower were not divided like we would see in the western world. The germaphobe in me was about to struggle. I was pretty freaked out over the sanitary conditions I would be living in. Pondered all of this for a few minutes, when finally realizing this is very silly, I calmed down. Like what the hell was I supposed to expect?! I just sent myself to a 3rd world country. “This isn’t gonna be your average adventure, choke it down now, you’re in for a whole lot of culture shock”
I’d become aware That I needed to humble myself out.
I managed to sneak a little roach doobie that had found its way across the world with me. Opened the window, took a peek outside to ensure the city was still as silent as when I arrived, and lit the last bit of my reefer. My nerves had finally begun to settle. I drank the tea I was admittedly scared of. I knew I needed to relax a bit and enjoy myself. The city was starting to beat the sun awake, as I was drifting off to the distant sounds of dogs barking and airplanes flying overhead.
That morning I woke up to the warm sun shining brightly through the large hotel room windows. I had maybe gotten three or four hours of sleep, but my excitement overtook my exhausted body and I could not wait to see Barsha. It had been a few months since we last saw each other, and A LOT had happened in those few months. If you haven’t read my previous blogs, to name a few of the bigger events; got laid off, then my heartbroken, nearly died in a shooting in Oakland, got fired for that, and had just sold all of my things and moved out of my apartment. The Universe and my poor life choices had broken me in every way. Fortunately, Barsha knew all of this and was the one who invited me in the first place.
It was about 8:45 in the morning when I jolted awake with excitement. My environment appeared to take a complete 180 degrees in just a few short hours. The city was alive and the once empty streets were FULL of people. Dogs of all breeds were walking around minding their business alongside them. Whatever fear my mind created for itself the night before vanished and I was in another realm. This would be the trip of a lifetime and the greatest adventure my soul desperately needed.
Barsha called and let me know they were already on their way and about an hour later her and her father arrived to greet me. Her father, Gangaram, was a dark skinned man of average height; in his fifties who had a charming and welcoming smile. We all appeared to be very excited I was there. We shuffled into his mini suv that looked something like a Honda Rav-4 and took off to their village, a place called Banepa.
The streets were packed full of motorbikes and other small vehicles. It appeared to be a get-in-where-you-fit-in driving sort of deal. There were also no apparent lanes of traffic, signs, or lights to abide by.
It felt like pure chaos. My mind couldn’t comprehend how attentive every single driver on the road had to be; as anyone in any “lane” could swerve anywhere they saw fit to try to reach their destination. My senses were overloaded and my cheeks were hurting from smiling so much. Gangaram wanted to practice his English with me and Barsha would help translate things in between.
We drove by miles of densely packed 6 story buildings that seemed to all be some kind of retail shop. Every shop wall lined to the brim with purchasable goods. Everything from electronics, tires, textile goods and many restaurants and hookah cafes. It kind of reminded me of a giant flea market. Not to mention all the smells that wafted by. My head was partially hanging out of the car. I was so amazed by the new sights, smells, and even sounds.
Sometimes the worst things lead US to the best things
My eyes began to water as my mind drifted for half a moment to the reason I was there. My heart was broken and I couldn’t help but be reminded of the only person my soul has ever craved. A half moment later I discreetly hid my tears and my mind returned to the present. I was in NEPAL on a one way ticket with no plans on returning to The States anytime soon. Forget about her I encouraged myself with some grace. I looked out the window and realized I honestly have no idea where this adventure was going to take me but I figured I’d experience as much as possible and see as many temples as I could along the way. I always told myself the next time my heart breaks I’m running off to Asia to go sit on a mountain and pray.
Little did I know I would be on a two week pilgrimage to see hundreds of temples across the 3 ancient cities of Kathmandu and Banepa. Over the course of 45 days I would get to truly experience a simple yet hard working, wild and beautiful way of life. I’d get to learn about ancient cultures and traditions from a country I never knew too much about. I would also be fed some of the best meals to satisfy my taste buds crafted by amazing people I truly will never forget. This profound experience would fire up the hungry and humble within me and also inspire me to start writing all of this for you to read. I will be breaking this story up into many smaller parts since there is so much to share and I could honestly write an entire book on just my adventures through Nepal. Everywhere from the ancient cities of Kathmandu, to the bustling countryside village of Banepa, to the calm and relaxing village of Pokhara near the unfathomably gigantic Himalaya Mountains. The goal here is to keep you all hungry though! Hope you enjoyed the first part of my journey